Kazbegi Travel Guide: Everything You Need to Know Before Visiting
Kazbegi, officially known as Stepantsminda, is a picturesque town nestled in the Greater Caucasus Mountains of Georgia. Renowned for its breathtaking mountain landscapes, rich cultural heritage, and warm hospitality, Kazbegi offers an unforgettable experience for travellers seeking adventure, nature, and authentic Georgian charm. Located just 12km from the Russian border along the famous Georgian Military Highway, Kazbegi is home to the iconic Gergeti Trinity Church and offers spectacular views of Mount Kazbek, one of the highest peaks in the Caucasus.
Why Visit Kazbegi?
Breathtaking Mountain Scenery: Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) is famous for its stunning alpine views, with Mount Kazbek (5047m) dominating the skyline. Don’t miss the iconic Gergeti Trinity Church, perched at 2,170 metres either a drive or a hike away and offering one of the most photographed vistas in Georgia, reachable with a scenic hike or a drive up.
Mount Kazbek is actually a 5,047-metre dormant stratovolcano. In Georgian, it is called Mkinvartsveri, which translates to ‘ice-capped’. Locals often refer to it as ‘The Bride’, a nickname inspired by the way the mountain’s face is frequently hidden behind a misty veil. We visited during the Georgian summer, and although there was no snow in the town itself, it was still quite cold. The peak remained snow-covered, creating a striking contrast against the clear skies.
Outdoor Activities for All Seasons: Whether you’re into hiking, trekking, paragliding, or mountaineering, Kazbegi is a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts. In summer, explore lush trails and waterfalls. In winter, enjoy snow-covered peaks and alpine adventures.
Authentic Georgian Culture: Immerse yourself in the local culture by visiting traditional mountain villages, ancient churches, and family-run guesthouses. Taste regional Georgian dishes like khinkali, kupati, and mountain honey, unique to the highlands.
Easy Access from Tbilisi: Just a scenic three to four-hour drive from the capital via the Georgian Military Highway, Kazbegi is one of the most accessible mountain destinations in Georgia. The journey itself offers incredible photo stops, including the Zhinvali Reservoir, Ananuri Fortress, and Gudauri viewpoint.
Perfect for Nature and Culture Lovers: Kazbegi blends raw natural beauty with deep-rooted history, making it ideal for travellers seeking a balance of adventure and cultural discovery.
And if hiking isn’t your thing, Kazbegi still has plenty to offer. Many guesthouses and boutique hotels are designed for relaxation, with a cosy atmosphere and breathtaking views right from your room. Some even have jacuzzis or outdoor terraces facing the mountains — perfect for soaking in the scenery without ever leaving the comfort of your stay.
Mount Kazbek is actually a 5,047-metre dormant stratovolcano. In Georgian, it is called Mkinvartsveri, which translates to ‘ice-capped’. Locals often refer to it as ‘The Bride’, a nickname inspired by the way the mountain’s face is frequently hidden behind a misty veil. We visited during the Georgian summer, and although there was no snow in the town itself, it was still quite cold. The peak remained snow-covered, creating a striking contrast against the clear skies.
Getting to Kazbegi
By Car:
Renting a car gives you flexibility and the chance to explore scenic stops along the Georgian Military Highway. The drive from Tbilisi to Kazbegi is approximately 165 km and takes around three to four hours. Along the way, you can stop at the Zhinvali Reservoir, Ananuri Fortress, and the Gudauri viewpoint. Roads are generally in good condition. However, caution is advised in winter due to snow or ice and it is better to check with locals and car rental places first.
By Marshrutka (Shared Minibus):
Marshrutkas to Kazbegi, listed as Stepantsminda, depart regularly from Tbilisi’s Didube Bus Station. The journey takes about three and a half hours and costs around 15 to 20 GEL per person. There is no need to pre-book. Just arrive early, pay the driver directly, and find a seat. This is a popular and budget-friendly option for solo travellers.
While coming back from Kazbegi we decided to take a Mashtrutka back to Tbilisi. It’s a straightforward journey. We had received a lot of feedback on the rough driving style of Mashtrutka drivers so we were fine with that as they are very experienced in driving these roads. Read about adventure here.
By Taxi or Private Driver:
Hiring a private taxi from Tbilisi to Kazbegi can cost between 150 and 250 GEL, depending on the season and your negotiation. It is a comfortable and quicker option, especially for small groups or travellers with luggage.
Platforms like GoTrip.ge let you hire a private car with a driver for day trips or multi-day travel. You set the itinerary, stop when you like, and travel comfortably. It’s more expensive than but affordable when split among a group, and perfect for destinations not served by marshrutkas or trains.
We booked a GoTrip to Kazbegi via the Georgian Military Highway based on advice and research, all of which suggested it’s better not to drive yourself, as the mountain route can be challenging. But after actually experiencing it, we’d much rather have driven ourselves (only during the non-winter months). The road has many hairpin bends, but it’s manageable for confident drivers who are comfortable with mountain driving. The road to Kazbegi was in good condition too. In fact, our drive to Khinaliq, Azerbaijan was more challenging.
By Guided Tour:
Several Georgian tour companies and hotels offer day trips or overnight tours to Kazbegi from Tbilisi. These often include stops at major attractions along the route and come with a local guide who shares insights into the region’s history and culture. We recommend staying here.
When is the best time to visit Kazbegi?
Kazbegi is breathtaking at any time of year. The only challenge is during peak winter when roads may close, making the town temporarily inaccessible.
Here is what you can expect throughout the year:
Late spring to early autumn (May to September) is the most popular time to visit. The weather is milder, mountain trails are open, and the landscapes are lush and green.
July and August bring the warmest temperatures, ideal for hiking and outdoor activities.
Summer (June to August) is perfect for trekking, sightseeing, and enjoying local festivals, though it can be busy.
Late autumn (October) offers beautiful fall colours and fewer tourists, but the weather becomes colder.
Winter (December to February) is cold and snowy, making it great for winter sports and viewing snow-covered peaks, although some roads and trails may be difficult to access.
If you prefer quieter visits with stunning scenery and do not mind cooler temperatures, shoulder seasons like May and September are ideal.
How many nights to spend in Kazbegi?
Given the breathtaking scenery and opportunities for exploration, we highly recommend dedicating at least two nights to your visit to Kazbegi (Stepantsminda). While the drive from Tbilisi along the Georgian Military Highway can be completed in under three hours, it’s packed with stunning stops like Ananuri Fortress and the Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument which can take around 6 hours. If you depart Tbilisi in the morning, you’ll likely arrive in Kazbegi by late afternoon giving you time to settle in. We experienced sunsets as late as 9 PM in the summer, allowing for exploration of the charming town and even a shorter hike upon arrival. This provides a full day for your second day, perfect for a dedicated hike to the iconic Gergeti Trinity Church, further enjoying the majestic Caucasus Mountains, and discovering the various scenic spots around the small town.
Top Things to Do in Kazbegi
- Gergeti Trinity Church (Tsminda Sameba Church): This iconic church is perched dramatically on a hilltop with Mount Kazbek as its backdrop. You can hike up from Stepantsminda town (about 1.5-2 hours one way), take a 4×4 taxi from the town square (quickest option), or drive your own high-clearance 4×4. Once there, enjoy the panoramic views, explore the ancient church and bell tower, and soak in the incredible atmosphere.
- Mount Kazbek (Mkinvartsveri): As one of the highest peaks in the Caucasus, Mount Kazbek offers breathtaking views when visible, often seen from Gergeti Trinity Church and various viewpoints in Stepantsminda. For serious trekkers, multi-day expeditions to the glacier and summit are possible.
- Dariali Gorge: This dramatic and historically significant gorge forms part of the border with Russia. You can drive through it to witness its towering cliffs, the fast-flowing Terek River, and the impressive Archangel Michael Church Complex built directly into the rock face.
- Gveleti Waterfalls (Big and Small): These two beautiful waterfalls are located just a short drive into the Dariali Gorge. A relatively easy hike (15-30 minutes) to each from the off-road parking offers refreshing cascades, especially enjoyable in warmer months.
- Sno Valley & Sno Village: This picturesque valley is known for its unique, giant stone head sculptures of Georgian historical figures. It’s a short drive from Stepantsminda, offering a tranquil village atmosphere and an ancient church, and serves as a starting point for treks towards Juta.
- Juta Village & Chaukhi Massif: For those seeking a more challenging day hike or overnight trek, Juta village is the gateway to the stunning Chaukhi Massif, often referred to as the “Dolomites of Georgia.” Reaching Juta requires a 4×4 vehicle or a local taxi from Stepantsminda, from where you can hike to the “Fifth Season” mountain hut/campsite for incredible views.
- Truso Valley: This remote and wild valley is distinguished by its unique travertines (mineral deposits), abandoned villages, and a historic tower. Access typically requires a 4×4 vehicle due to rough roads. Exploring this valley involves hiking or driving through its unique landscapes, bubbling mineral springs, and untouched nature, often making for a full-day trip.
- Stepantsminda Town (itself): As the central hub of the region, Stepantsminda provides a base for all your explorations. Here, you can explore the town square, visit local guesthouses and restaurants to try local cuisine like Khinkali, and continuously enjoy the majestic views of Mount Kazbek dominating the skyline.
Our Experience in Kazbegi
We arrived in Kazbegi around 3pm, after spending the earlier part of the day exploring scenic stops along the Georgian Military Highway. From the Zhinvali Reservoir to Ananuri Fortress and the spectacular Gudauri viewpoint, the journey itself was a highlight.
Once we reached Kazbegi, we settled into our cosy Airbnb and decided to explore the town on foot, as we didn’t have a car. The fresh mountain air and quiet pace of life were a welcome change from the bustle of Tbilisi.
A spontaneous waterfall hike
Later that afternoon, we set out on a spontaneous hike to a nearby waterfall, located here on Google Maps. While we couldn’t find the official name, this was one of the most peaceful hikes we have been with barely anyone around.
We returned around 8:30pm as it began to get dark and had dinner at a nearby local restaurant. Food and accomodation in Kazbegi is slightly more expensive than in Tbilisi as it’s more touristy and has fewer options comparitively. However, you’ll also find great deals on airbnbs and hotels due to this reason. Our airbnb was gorgeous and less than $35.
The Gergeti Trinity Church hike: one of the best we’ve ever done
The next morning, we had breakfast and picked up a few snacks from Spar before starting our trek. We followed Wander-Lush’s guide to hike up to Gergeti Trinity Church. If you are planning to do the hike, that guide is a must-read. It is detailed, practical, and easy to follow.
The trail is beginner-friendly and offers breathtaking views throughout. Once we reached the top, we spent a couple of hours relaxing and soaking it all in. A tame horse wandered over, and we fed it some grass. We called him Jorge the Horse, and he kept us company for a while.
A dog called Kez from Kazbegi
As we started walking back down, we were joined by a friendly dog who seemed to know the trail well. He stuck with us all the way down and quietly left once we reached the bottom. It felt like he was heading off to meet the next group of hikers.
Later, we saw photos of him online, so it seems like he’s a bit of a local trail guide. We named him Kez from Kazbegi. His presence made the hike even more memorable.
A chilly evening and a warm meal
By the time we reached town, the temperature had dropped. It had been warm earlier in the day, but once the sun set, it became quite cold. On the walk back to our Airbnb, we stopped at a restaurant called Good Food Kazbegi. The food was lovely, and the owner kindly gave us blankets while we waited. That small act of kindness made the meal feel even more comforting.
More than just one hike
While the Gergeti Trinity Church hike is the most popular in Kazbegi, and absolutely worth doing, the area offers many other mountain experiences. It’s a place where you can slow down, breathe in fresh air, and explore nature at your own pace.
On our final morning, we took a short walk through the town and then caught a marshrutka back to Tbilisi.
Kazbegi gave us some of our favourite memories in Georgia. We left with one of the most memorable trips of our lives with legs, happy hearts, and stories of Jorge the Horse, Kez the Dog, and the peaceful magic of the Caucasus Mountains.
We also felt completely safe in Kazbegi, even during our night strolls. One small moment that stayed with us was when I dropped something as simple as a hair tie during the day, and someone came running after me just to return it. There was a different kind of warmth in Georgian hospitality throughout our trip, during our treks, at our guesthouse, and in every small interaction along the way.
Where to Stay in Kazbegi
Kazbegi offers a range of accommodations to suit various preferences and budgets:
Guesthouses: Experience Georgian hospitality in family-run guesthouses offering home-cooked meals and cozy rooms. (This was our favourite part.)
Hotels: From boutique hotels to luxury resorts, enjoy modern amenities with stunning mountain views.
Camping: For nature enthusiasts, camping near Gergeti Trinity Church or in the surrounding valleys provides an immersive experience.
Final Thoughts
Kazbegi is the kind of place that stays with you long after you leave. Dare we say, it is one of the most beautiful views we have ever seen. Not because we have not encountered more dramatic mountains, but because of the feeling it gave us. There was something incredibly special about being surrounded by such beauty, with no crowds in sight. Coming from busy, built-up spaces, Kazbegi offered a rare sense of peace.
The guesthouses and hotels are cosy, well looked after, and many offer stunning views of Mount Kazbek. At this price point, especially when compared to alpine regions in Europe, it feels like a hidden gem.
We visited during the summer months, when the mountains were lush and vividly green. It was the greenest landscape we have experienced, and knowing these same peaks are often covered in snow made it feel even more surreal.
Kazbegi is more than a destination. It is a place that invites you to slow down, breathe deeply, and simply be. And that is what makes it unforgettable.
